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平遥碗脱子
平遥碗脱子
 更新时间:2005-6-2 10:02:32
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平遥碗脱子 

  平遥碗脱子是驰名三晋的地方名吃,精素不腻,风味独特。闻之喷香扑鼻,见之唾涎欲滴,食之美味沁心。既可小尝,又能饱吃;既能便食,又可上筵。夏季冷调,清凉爽口;冬季热炒,温和舒身。是一种常吃常想、百吃不厌的理想佳肴。
    清光绪年间,城南堡著名厨师董宣总结前人经验,创制出色、香、味俱佳的平遥碗脱子。相传光绪二十六年(1900),慈禧太后从北京逃往西安时路经平遥城,品尝过董宣做的平遥碗脱后,赞不绝口。赐予重赏。随之,平遥碗脱子名气倍增。
  平遥碗脱子是一种蒸食,制作方法独特,历经近百年,深受群众喜爱。新中国成立后,董宣的第四代传人董兴旺(乳名三圪塔),继承了祖辈的传统工艺,在实践中根据群众的饮食口味,进一步改进了平遥碗脱子的用料和制作方法,将原来用荞面制作,并加韭菜、虾米,改为用白面制作,并去掉韭菜、虾米,加入油、盐、葱花,制作时,先将精白面用温水按一定比例调成糊状,加入适量油、盐、葱花等佐料,由稠到稀调匀,盛入小碟内,上笼蒸熟。待出笼凉冷后,脱碟而成,呈圆形,色淡黄。然后将碗脱子一一依次迭加放入笼箱内,互不沾连,折卷不断,光滑如鱼。改进后的白面碗脱子,色 雅、光亮、纯净、卫生,质量明显提高。食用时,分冷调、热炒两种。  冷调时用刀将碗脱子切成条状置入盘内,加醋、蒜泥、芝麻浆、大料水、辣椒面、香油等调料,调匀而食,凉爽可口。热炒时先将炒瓢加  热,放入熟猪油或麻油,据火候加入葱蒜,然后将切成条状的碗脱子倒人爆炒,再加入山药蛋丝或黄豆牙,烹以酱油、醋、大料水等调料,香味四溢,引人垂涎。
  董兴旺(三圪塔)的碗脱子闻名省城,在平遥更是无人不晓。80年代市场开放后,董兴旺将祖传工艺和自己创新的方法又传给了儿子和侄子董守义。一家人在城内三处设摊,顾客川流不息,座无虚席。家里的批发商更是门庭若市,来来往往。产品除满足本县需要外,还销往太原、榆次及周围邻县。近年来,加工出售碗脱子的作坊和摊点逐年增多。平遥古城内外各条大街及车站周围,布满出售碗脱子的小摊点。城乡庙会、集市上,碗脱子小摊随处可见。来平遥古城旅游的客人,无不慕名品尝平遥碗脱子的鲜美滋味。

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